Ireland in Winter, With Kids, and a Rental Car
- Jess
- 4 hours ago
- 7 min read
A real-life custom trip to Ireland, not the glossy version
Ireland wasn’t supposed to happen in winter. At least not according to the internet.
Too cold. Too wet. Too dark. All technically true… and also completely wrong.
We took our two kids, 12 and 15, flew overseas in the dead of winter, drove on the wrong side of the road, and somehow came home thinking, yeah, we’d do that again. Maybe not the overnight ferry part. But most of it.
This was an 11-day Ireland trip that included Manchester, Belfast, Galway, and Dublin, and it’s a great example of how a custom trip to Ireland doesn’t have to follow the same tired path everyone else takes.
It just has to fit you.
Starting in England, Because Why Not
Manchester, Liverpool, and a little travel planner flex
We flew into Manchester. That was intentional. We used points hard earned from the 10x Travel program to fly first class, family of four direct to Manchester. Bougie.
Joe had one non-negotiable request… seeing his first Premier League match. So yes, we watched Manchester United vs Newcastle in person. Old Trafford, it was electric. And yes, he bought a ManU skull cap.
That skull cap then followed him to Liverpool and Ireland, where he received a shocking amount of friendly trash talk. They’re serious about footie (soccer) over there. Dead serious. It became a running joke for the rest of the trip.
We had a lovely stay in Manchester. Our walking food tour with Flavours of Manchester was the real standout. We learned the history of Manchester as a cotton hub and saw the birthplace of the Rolls Royce. We felt like locals after a couple days tramming and walking around. There's so much to see and do in Manchester that we're going to make this our hub instead of London most likely.
From Manchester, we took the train to Liverpool, and spent the day touring around. We went to the British Music Experience museum, which was super cool, and of course posed next to the famous Beatles statue. Liverpool is where they're from. After we did an amazing Persian dinner on Mathew Street where the Beatles played many concerts, we boarded an overnight ferry to Belfast.
I’ll be honest. That part is not for the faint of heart. It’s memorable in the “we survived this together” way. But it’s also one of those moments that turns into a great family story later, which is kind of the point.
I had thought that it would be less hassle than doing a mid-trip flight, but it wasn't. You don't board the ferry until 9pm and they were pushing us off by 6am. We got a cabin that could fit four, but it was cramped, a bit warm, and not the vibe.
Belfast, History You Can’t Ignore
The Troubles, Titanic, and a city that stays with you
Belfast surprised us the most.Not because it was uncomfortable, but because it didn’t shy away from its own story.
We did a Black Taxi Troubles Tour, and this is not something you skim through. You’re driving past murals that aren’t decoration, they’re memory. You stop at the Peace Wall, layered with messages from people around the world, and it becomes very clear that this history isn’t distant. It’s recent. It’s lived.
Religion comes up. Pain comes up. So does progress. And hearing how those things coexist is what makes Belfast feel honest instead of heavy.
What really surprised me was our kids. They paid attention. They asked real questions. It didn’t feel like a lecture. It felt like learning something that actually matters.
Then there’s the Titanic Belfast.This isn’t just about the ship. It’s about the city that built it. The pride, the craftsmanship, and the loss. The museum is immersive without being gimmicky, and by the end, everyone slows down. Standing where Titanic was actually built makes the story feel personal in a way no movie ever could.
After that, we spent time in the Cathedral Quarter, which was the perfect change of pace. Cobblestone streets, great food, music drifting out of pubs, and a sense that this is a city very much alive right now.
If you’re planning a family trip to Ireland and skipping Northern Ireland because it feels “too heavy,” I’d gently challenge that. Belfast adds depth you don’t get elsewhere.
More on Northern Ireland travel here: https://discovernorthernireland.com
And then there was Giant’s Causeway.
The hike down to the water is steep and cold, but once you’re there, hopping across those massive hexagonal stones with the wind whipping around you, it’s unreal. One of those rare moments where everyone is fully present. No phones. Just wow.
Driving in Ireland
Yes, we rented a car. Yes, it was terrifying.
We rented a car and drove on the left side of the road.
Every turn felt wrong. Roundabouts are aggressive. Hedges feel closer than they should.
But here’s the thing… Ireland rewards drivers. The freedom to stop, detour, pull over because the view is ridiculous. You don’t get that on a bus tour.
If you’re nervous, that’s normal. You can always choose a private driver/daytrip operator.
Galway and the Wild Side of Ireland
Beautiful, bold, and slightly exhausting
Galway is charming. Colorful. Musical. Cozy, even in winter.
We did two big excursions from here: the Cliffs of Moher and Connemara.
I’m going to be honest.
Both are incredible. Doing both back to back is aggressive.
If you’re choosing, I recommend the Cliffs of Moher. They’re iconic for a reason. Windy, dramatic, and worth it. Connemara is stunning but sprawling, and it can feel like a lot if you’re already road-weary.
Galway itself is where you slow down. Pubs, music, wandering streets without a plan. That balance matters.
Dublin, The Good and the Crowded
Tourist traps, hidden gems, and doing the famous stuff anyway
Dublin is a mix.And I mean that in the best way.
Some parts feel like you’re standing in the middle of everyone’s Ireland bucket list at once. Other moments feel oddly personal, like you accidentally wandered into the real city while everyone else was lined up somewhere else.
The Guinness Storehouse is the obvious example. It’s crowded. It’s touristy. It moves fast. And yes… it’s still worth doing. The building itself is impressive, the history is interesting, and that final pint at the Gravity Bar, even with a room full of strangers, still hits. Sometimes you just do the thing because it’s the thing.
Then there’s Trinity College and the Book of Kells, which somehow manage to feel both sacred and chaotic at the same time. The Book of Kells is stunning, even for kids who claim they’re “not museum people.” But the real jaw-dropper is the Long Room Library. That space stops you mid-step. Floor to ceiling books, the smell of old paper, and a quiet that feels earned. It’s one of those places where everyone naturally lowers their voice, even teenagers. That’s saying something.
The key here is timing. Trinity can feel magical or maddening depending on when you go. Early entry or a properly timed tour makes all the difference. This is where planning beats winging it.
And then there’s the surprise favorite, the Little Museum of Dublin. It’s small, easy to miss, and packed with personality. This is where Dublin starts telling jokes about itself. The guides are fantastic, the stories are personal, and it gives you context without overwhelming you. It’s the kind of place you’d never fully appreciate if it wasn’t intentionally placed into your itinerary.
Dublin also works beautifully without a car. After days of white-knuckle left-side driving and rural roads that feel a bit too cozy, it’s a relief. You walk everywhere. You linger. You pop into a pub because it looks inviting, not because it’s on a list.
Vintage Tea Trips was one of those Dublin experiences that sounds cute on paper and somehow ends up being genuinely great in real life. Riding around the city on a vintage double-decker bus while sipping tea and eating pastries felt delightfully old-school without being stuffy. You’re sightseeing without thinking too hard, the views roll by, the kids are occupied, and no one’s rushing you out the door. It was warm, cozy, and honestly a nice break from walking miles in the cold. If you want to see Dublin while sitting down, with snacks, and feeling mildly British about the whole thing, Vintage Tea Trips is a really fun way to do it.
As a final stop before flying home, Dublin makes sense. It eases you out of the trip instead of slamming on the brakes.
Let’s Talk Money
Because pretending it’s cheap doesn’t help anyone
Ireland isn’t a budget destination.
As Americans, you feel the euro and pound. Hotels, meals, attractions… it adds up. Winter helps a little with pricing and crowds, but this is still a place where planning smart matters.
The upside? You get value. Quality lodging. Incredible food. Experiences that stick.
And no, you don’t need five-star everything. You need the right mix.
Why This Matters
And why most people shouldn’t plan this alone
This trip worked because it was custom.
Not rushed. Not overpacked. Not built for someone else’s idea of Ireland.
We balanced history with nature. Cities with quiet. Heavy moments with pure fun. And we built in space for kids to be kids and parents to breathe.
If you’re thinking about a custom trip to Ireland, especially with kids, winter travel, or adding something unexpected like Northern Ireland or England, this is where I come in.
I’ve done it. I’ve driven it. I’ve frozen in the rain and still loved it.
If you want help planning an Ireland itinerary that actually fits your family, your pace, and your budget, reach out. I’d love to help you build it.
You can contact me here to start your custom Ireland trip.
And yes… I’ll tell you honestly if the overnight ferry is a bad idea for you.